CHAPTER 4: ON A MOUNTAIN BY THE SEA | ||
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It happened at dawn, whilst watching the sunrise on a
mountain by the sea in Ireland. On the summit of Tibradden lies a
megalith – an ancient monument of stone. It was placed there five or
six thousand years ago by a Neolithic people who worshipped the Sun. In
the earliest surviving Irish manuscripts, known as the Mythological
Cycle, they are called the Tuatha Dé Danaan – the People of the Goddess Danu – whom I have described in the first section
of this text. Interestingly enough, they saw the Sun as the giver of
life and the healer of disease. Contrary to the dim vision of our
stone-age ancestors which is widespread today, these people were
perhaps simpler than us, but neither stupid nor self-destructive. | |
In Europe, for example, when I was a kid at school in
Switzerland, we were always taught that before the civilising influence
of the Roman Empire and the origins of science in Greek logic, our
ancestors were barbarian, brutal, and barely human. Such ethnocentric
prejudice is, of course, as widespread as it is ridiculous: a
rudimentary knowledge of anthropology reveals that during the pre-urban
phase of social evolution, people were able to develop a sustainable
relationship to their local ecosystem, and a sound psychological
awareness of their relationship to the cosmos as a whole. Because of
this, our ancestors were able to survive and prosper for hundreds of
thousands of years. The next fifty years of our current
urban/industrial civilisation are less certain. And just as we project
a negative image onto our own ancestors, many people in the
industrialised countries do so concerning the great majority of the
human race which lives in the developing countries, decrying their
frugal lifestyle and financial deficits as proof of their inferior
ability. But then again, the U.S.A. is now the greatest debtor nation
on Earth... |
Irish mythology remembers our stone-age ancestors in
positive terms. It refers to the People of the Goddess as the "Lords of
Light", and describes them as a supernatural race of wizards who
descended from the sky. As I mentioned earlier, they were also called
the "Good People" or the "Faery Folk", and were said to have "left
their bodies" when challenged for possession of the island when the
warlike Celts arrived on the scene in the middle of the second
millennium BCE. According to this very ancient myth, they thus
disappeared off the face of the Earth, by going into it. Again,
this underground Land of the Shídhe was conceived as a hidden world
beyond time, where the immortal ones still exist, and could often be
seen by sensitive individuals in special moments and quiet places. Some
aspects of this neolithic culture were later adopted by the Celts
themselves, whose worship of the Sun – under the names of The Good King
Dagda, Lug, Baal, and Ard Rí Ghréine; (the High King of the
Sun) – survived intact right up until the introduction of Christianity
in the fifth century of the present era. Even today, people in rural
parts of Ireland will point out the megaliths as the abode of the
fairies, and warn the passing city folk and tourists not to disturb
their habitation, by ploughing or digging of any kind... |
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In his book The Fairy Faith in Celtic Countries,
the anthroplogist W.Y. Evans-Wentz, who made a field trip to Ireland in
1908 and 1909, reports his informants' claim that their
great-grandparents "saw" the fairy people regularly and considered this
quite natural. (58)
They also told him that since then, the fairies had grown shy and were
rarely seen anymore. They explained that the various upheavals
associated with the Industrial Revolution had made the Good People wary
of humans and all their noise and clatter. Perhaps the strongest
folk-memory of these People of the Goddess to have survived is the
ancient shamanic feast of Aoíche Samhainn, otherwise known as
All-Halloween. On this first night of the Celtic New Year, as my
grandfather, Senator Joseph O'Doherty, used to tell me when I was a
child, the passageways connecting our world to the Land of the
Immortals open up, and troops of fairies, thousands of them, shoot up
out of the ground from their dwelling places underneath the megaliths
and fly in great lines through the sky to converge on the Hill of Tara,
the traditional Central Kingdom of the ancient five provinces of
Ireland, and historical seat of its High Kings. Here, deep beneath the
ruins of the royal palace, the King and Queen of the Fairies have a
palace of their own, and host their annual ball, which is a far better
bash than the one above. |
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Curiously, Halloween happens to occur at the end of the "magic mushroom" season in Ireland. This little psychoactive plant Psilocybe semilanceata,
popularly known as the Liberty Cap or Witches' Cap, is eaten by
thousands of people who gather it in the fields in late Summer and
Autumn. The fact that eating it produces a pleasant visionary state of
consciousness for a few hours, strongly suggests that the preceding
piece of folklore may be one of the rare Indigenous shamanic traditions
to have survived in Europe from Neolithic times. (59) | |
But the Irish, having been converted from the Old Religion
to Christianity, persuaded themselves that such Pagan goings-on are the
work of the Devil. They then re-made the old feast into All Souls' Day,
and tried to protect themselves from their own projected fears by
lighting fiercely-carved pumpkin lanterns in their cottage windows,
lest one of the visitors from the other world decide to drop in for a
wee visit. On the other hand, the Celts have always believed that the
supernatural power of poetry, healing and music was a gift from the
Good People. In recent centuries, this tradition was handed down
especially amongst the traditional harpers and pipers, who would risk
excommunication from the Church of Rome and go to the old megaliths on
purpose; for these brave musicians esteemed it a great privilege to
listen to the fairy music – or better still, to be "taken by the
fairies" and "fly" with them to the other world, since the music there
is said to be the most beautiful on Earth, and one can pick up some
great tunes to play for the folks back home. Music, you see, was at the
very heart of Irish culture, and it is a well-known fact that the main
reason that the authority of our Druids was held greater even than that
of the tribal King or Queen, was due to their extraordinary musical
prowess.
But I digress. "The most important thing to remember", my
grandfather emphasised " – if ever you are lucky enough to be taken by
the Faery people yourself – is not to let the magic of the music, the
splendour of the festivities or the beauty of the women seduce you into
lingering too long in the other world. As a precaution, take your leave
before the break of day. Otherwise, you run the risk of finding that
although you thought you had only been away for one night, whole
centuries may have actually elapsed during your absence and you will
have become a very old man, and your beard will be long and white and
all you family and friends will long since be dead and buried!" At any
rate, this shamanic tradition of "otherworldly" experience was passed
down in Ireland from Neolithic times until the present, as Joseph
Campbell put it, as a "Celtic counterpart of the image of the Kingdom
already here: the interface of the two worlds, Eternity and Time." So
much for the mythology. |
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Whoever they were, these stone-age People of the Goddess
have long since vanished in the mists of time. But we have scientific
evidence that they were avid watchers of the night skies, for they have
left us an archaeological legacy of tens of thousands of artworks in
stone which withstood the turbulence of history and adorn the Irish
landscape to this very day. (61)
These megaliths come in various shapes and sizes, including raths,
dolmens, menhirs, cairns, stone circles, tumuli, barrows and passage
mounds, some of which are elaborately constructed and up to several
hundred feet in diameter. Within these monuments, hundreds of stones
are engraved with astronomical petroglyphs, constituting the largest
known collection of Neolithic art in the world. |
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The most famous of Irish megaliths which has been
excavated so far is the giant cairn at Newgrange, on the banks of the
river Boyne (the Goddess Boánd) in County Meath. Its Irish name, Brú na Boinne,
means the House of Boánd. This monument which has been radio-carbon
dated to 3,250 BCE, is shown in the pictures above and left. It
measures over 100m. in diameter, and contains a 19m. passage leading to
a tall central corbelled chamber, thought to be the oldest roofed
chamber in the world. This is surrounded by three side-chambers. At the
moment of sunrise on the Winter Solstice, a beam of sunlight enters
inside the cairn through the aperture which you can see above the
entrance in the photo on the left, and penetrates down the passage all
the way to the central chamber where it illunimates a triple-spiral
petroglyph, shown below. |
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Well, to get back to my story, and to the physical context
of my experience: local folklore has it that the cairn on Tibradden is
oriented to the exact direction of the sunrise on the Summer Solstice.
On the eve of the 21st. of June, 1972, curiosity drove me to take a
look and see for myself. Along with a few friends, I made a little
midsummer night's astroarcheological field trip to this mountain with a
view. |
At first, all was darkness and blazing stars. Gradually,
the brilliance of the galaxy faded in anticipation of the sun. In the
dim penumbra, I could now barely make out the outline of the cairn,
hard and pale against the dark and dewy heather: a low, womb-shaped
mound of rocks, with an opening that faces North-East, out over Dublin
Bay and the sea beyond. This cairn is technically of the passage-mound
variety, smaller in size but similar in plan to Newgrange. In the case
of Tibradden, unfortunately, the roof (which once covered the central
chamber and the passage connecting it to the outside) has been
vandalised, so that both the passage and the chamber itself are now
fully exposed to the heavens, although the basic astronomical alignment
of the passage remains the same. Above, the morning star now twinkled
brightly in the firmament. Behind, the moon slipped silently away
beneath the hills. We lit a bonfire, silently waiting for the dawn to
come. |
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This was the Summer Solstice, the astronomical turning
point when the Sun rises at its most Northerly position on the horizon,
and flies highest in the noonday sky: the longest day of the year. The
morning breeze was honey-sweet with the intoxicating scent of yellow
gorse in bloom; everywhere around me, the purple heather made a dewy
velvet mantle covering the Dublin hills and Wicklow mountains which
rise, in great round thrusts of blue and purple amethyst, as far as the
eye can see. The ancient Greeks sailed here to trade amber, silk and
saffron for Wicklow gold, some of which still remains in the treasury
at Mycenae. |
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It is a pristine wilderness of steeply curving hillsides, sweeping
moors, sparkling waterfalls, fantastic ferny glens and tumbling trout-
and salmon-streams: a haven for the asphodel, the Rowan-berry tree and
herds of great red deer, a home to the spiral-horned mountain goat, the
peregrine falcon, the grouse, the wren, the fox and hare. In its quiet
valleys – Glenasmole, Glencree, Glenmacnass, Glendalough, Glendasan,
Glenmalure, the Glen of Imaal – stands of Scots pine, hazel, and birch
abound. Aristocratic country houses are set on green lawns amongst
thickets of flowering rhododendron. (63)
Plump pheasants browse in the chest-high bracken of primeval oak woods.
Its turf bogs come alive with fleetly flying snipe and the plaintive
cry of the curlew. Its isolated cottages and sheep farms bear hedges of
the whitethorn and hawthorn, sacred to the Druids. |
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Its villages – Enniskerry, Roundwood, Laragh, Aughrim,
Tinaheely – are full of legendary pubs where one can sip a hot whiskey
with lemon juice, cloves and honey on a snowy winter's afternoon, or
while away long summer evenings to the lilting music of jigs and reels
played on the fiddle and the Uileann pipes. Its rippling silver lakes –
Lough Bray, Lough Tay, Lough Dan, Lough Ouler, and the two lakes of
Glendalough – their mossy green banks lush with the promise of
blueberries and mushrooms, are graced by visitors from Africa and Asia:
flights of wild geese, mallard, teal and whooping swans on their
seasonal migrations from Arctic Siberian tundras to the estuary of the
Zambezi river in Mozambique. In short, it's very beautiful. Somewhere
in the sky above, a lark began to sing. |
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Majestically the Sun rose: over the sleeping city, way
beyond the silver sea, her golden orb of fire appeared through the
passage in the ring of stones – in perfect geometrical alignment with
the very spot where I stood at the centre of the cairn. |
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As her rays reached out across the land, illuminating the
gilded stones and warming the chill off my face, I felt certain that
the People of the Goddess who had designed and built this astronomical
observatory, must have worshipped the Sun because they understood, in
some deep primeval way, that she is indeed the energy source of all
biological activity on Earth.
Then, as if in a dream, my consciousness became projected
outside of time, and I beheld Dublin as the Universal City. It now
appeared transformed, no longer a static thing but a live, evolving
organism. (66)
In time-lapse mode I saw it grow, expand, explode, metastasise like
cancer, spewing itself forth like some grimy excrement, its foul
suburban offshoots creeping toward me up the hillside. This megalopolis
now appeared as a veritable monster in the guise of a devil that
devours the land and sea, menacing the creatures that dwell there, a
parasite consuming the Earth and poisoning the planet. I heard the
rush-hour traffic rumble, the sirens cry, the jet planes roar, the
people shout and scream, the wildlife die, the human spirit fade and
flicker. I thought of all the suffering, the greed, the violence of
conquests and revolutions and wars, and felt dismay. But of course this
city was also my self, I in it as much as it in me. It was indeed my
city, for my grandparents and parents and I had lived there, and if it
was somehow out of touch with nature, then so was I, for I too had lost
my way and certainly had no idea how the urban monster could be tamed.
I had tried to escape its concrete stranglehold, had fled for shelter
to the beautiful Wicklow mountains, had learnt to keep bees, grow
organic vegetables, recycle wastes and return the compost to the soil,
only to find my trees and rivers dying of acid rain, my rich topsoil
fouled by chemical fertilisers and pesticides, my subsistence farmer
neighbours ruined by agribusiness competition, my wild meadows paved
over for suburban housing lots, my peers growing cynical, my people
demoralised, my country more and more in debt, my species seemingly
bent on self-destruction, and the sky darkened by the menace of
radioactivity. I had finally reached the impasse: here I was, gaping
into the jaws of the tiger. I felt completely and utterly stuck. And I
knew it.
And then, as I looked into the rising Sun, something
amazing happened. It seemed as if the star became a mirror, and falling
through this looking-glass I found another Sun within myself. This is
impossible to describe in words, for the effect was dazzling. THE SONG OF AMERGIN I am the wind on the ocean Who is it who throws light into the meeting on the mountain? In the simple clarity of that inner dawn, my faith in the
future of life on planet Earth was renewed, for I now saw Humankind –
as Bucky Fuller said, "emerging from the womb of History", albeit still
embodied in the urban centres of its industrial phase, and still as
confused as any new-born baby – yet a vast colonial life-form of human
individuals whose built-in common sense is surely the greatest untapped
resource in the world today. The potential of the people! Like a
new-born infant, we have so much to learn – especially to trust our own
Self, to overcome the fear of making mistakes, and to resist the stupid
habit of always trying to modify each other's behaviour, which as
history shows, always backfires in the end. As Gregory Bateson
remarked, "We try to prohibit certain encroachments, but it might be
more effective to encourage people to know their freedoms and
flexibility and to use them more often." (68)
No need for us to always try to intervene, control, to carry out our
political activities through force, violence, intimidation, propaganda,
invasion, conquest, torture, revolution, terrorism, subversion,
secrecy, espionage, deception and war, to pillage and plunder the
Earth's resources and brazenly blast off from orbital battle-stations
in Promethean attempts to fuel the machinery of civilisation by
militarising the "High Frontier," strip-mining asteroids in space, and
starting an eternally uncontainable scenario of cosmic warfare by
unleashing the genie of Star Wars on our children's children's
children. It became irrevocably clear to me that should we continue to
indulge this pathological urge for total control, the result would
certainly be chaos. As Lao Tsu said: "The world is ruled by letting
things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." |
If we are clear-headed enough to comprehend the enormous
creative capacity of this technology as a cultural learning tool, we
could use it to make our interaction with nature conscious, to make the
relationship between global issues and the individual explicit, and to
inform and empower men, women and children to play their part in
helping to create the societal transition to a sustainable civilisation
before it is too late. In short, to dissolve the information blockage
that stands in our way. And we can do it within our lifetime! "When people share a common goal, their natural tendency is to cooperate in realising it." |
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This experience thus formed a turning-point in my personal
life, and the inspiration for my work as an artist. I believe its
transformative effect was due primarily to the context in which it
happened, i.e.: the time and physical setting of the location, and the
mindset of the observer – in this case, someone who was sincerely
trying to make sense of a no-exit situation, and who was well prepared
by having read most of the literature about non-ordinary states of
consciousness which was in print at the time. When I came down from the
mountain, I re-entered the same absurd world situation as before, but
now found myself perceiving it in a new way, for it seemed somehow
subtly transformed from terrible danger to tantalising opportunity.
Since then I have met many kinds of people and seen many lovely and
terrible things, living and travelling through Europe, Asia and North
America, but the feeling has grown stronger with time. Whether
skin-diving off a tropical coral reef in Sri Lanka, hearing the
Muezzin's call to prayer in the desert town at Kandahar, Afghanistan,
cooking supper with Tibetan villagers in the Himalayas, working with
archival film footage in Hollywood, or communicating from my laptop in
New York over the Net to Japan, I see our troubled world interfused
with an opportunity of mythological proportions in which each of us,
for better or for worse, will play our part. |
My experience that morning on the mountain thus inspired me to undertake a work of information-art called the Global Vision Project.
This is a cumulative series of participatory media environments
cybernetically designed to evoke a more integrated picture of Humankind
and the Biosphere as a whole system. The project unfolds as an
international, learning-oriented, educational publicity campaign
designed to promote the idea of a sustainable civilisation as a global goal. The underlying aim is to draw the viewer's attention to the pattern the connects the world situation to our own way of seeing it. | ||
The Project's first media product is Sustainability,
an educational package of films, a DVD, a book and online resources
forming a positive vision of the future seen through the eyes of
leading thinkers, scientists, artists and musicians from around the
world. This is essentially a prototype for a global educational
curriculum, for television broadcast and videocassette distribution to
schools, universities and organisations working on global issues. It
will also serve as a promotional tool to recruit a trans-disciplinary
network of organisations for an international participatory planning
conference for the Project as a whole.
On a personal level, my experience that morning on the
mountain definitely magnetised the arrow of my life's direction, gave
me courage in moments of difficulty, and kindled the fire of an
enthusiasm which I will carry with me until death. Yet I remain a
person with doubts and needs just like anybody else, and I am certainly
no prophet or guru. Refreshed as from a sleep of centuries, the idea entered
my head as freely as the sunshine, which is priceless and which has no
price. To the people of the Goddess, the power of the Sun can heal the
world. Maybe they had a wisdom we have lost, for the sun indeed shines
on all the people of this Earth. Its image thus has universal meaning,
and as a symbol is particularly appropriate for the global age. In its
external aspect, it stands for unlimited solar energy and the many
advantages waiting to be tapped by making the transition to a
post-industrial economy based on renewable resources. It its inner
aspect it balances the historical task at hand by reminding us of the
inner Self whose light is the only reliable guide we can depend on
through the turbulent years ahead. Also, if we turn our backs on the
potential of solar energy, we may incur the sun's divine wrath, as it
were, by frying ourselves through a combination of the greenhouse
effect and the depletion of the ozone layer. By linking the process of
personal individuation to the historical process of social evolution,
the sun seems an appropriate symbol that could have meaning for
Humankind coming to see itself as a whole. Well, there you have it. Please do not take my metaphor
literally, or you might think I had some kind of "supernatural"
revelation, in which case you may be disappointed. If you like, think
of it as a reminder, discovered by a passing artist stumbling on some
ancient stones left upon a mountain by his ancestors many thousand
years ago. Perhaps it was just in my mind's eye. One thing I know for
certain, that old artwork up on Tibradden points to the Sun. If you go
there at dawn on Midsummer's Day, you can see for yourself. He sees only the winding of the path He does not know that already
ENDNOTES |
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